Published in French Property News in December 2005

Variety is the spice of life

The department of Pyrénées-Orientales is our winter dream of summer holidays - hot sun, sandy beaches, palm trees and craggy bays backed by vineyards and scenic mountains. Old castles, forts, abbeys, good food, some great wine and a colourful Catalan culture add to the appeal. For those preferring winter sports there are also eight ski resorts. It is possible in March and April to ski then swim in the sea on the same day. You can then pop into Spain for tapas.

This remarkable department is the most southern in France. The coast, Plaine du Roussillon, Pyrenean foothills, and high mountains, all within about an hour of each other, make for extraordinary diversity. The Mediterranean climate on the coast is hot in the summer and mild at other times (but can be windy) and the sheltered mountain valleys have 300 days of sun a year. The department’s main economies are agriculture and tourism.

Perpignan, the capital of Catalan France, is the only big town, with a population of 105,000. It doesn’t have any industry but is making real efforts these days to forge itself a role in Europe. It is a lively place, with plenty of outside cafés and bars. There are some atmospheric old streets and interesting historical monuments.

Areas popular with British buyers include the breathtaking, rocky Vermillion coast, the picturesque villages at the foot of the Albères, the relaxed, mountain town of Céret and around the vineyard-villages of Estagel and Baixas further north. All are near airports. Ryan Air and Flybe fly from the UK into Perpignan-Rivesaltes and Ryan Air goes from a wide choice of airports into Girona, which is under an hour from the French border.

The star of the Côte Vermeille is Collioure. Despite its popularity this highly attractive town remains unspoilt. Tall balconied and shuttered buildings in pink, yellow and blue, hung with washing, line narrow pedestrian streets. Cafés offer long drinks under cool shady trees. Fishing boats bob in the harbour. The seafront is dominated by the imposing thirteenth-seventeenth century Chateau Royal.

Matisse and other Fauvist artists were drawn to Collioure mesmerised by its light and colours and British buyers have followed in their footsteps. However properties are not easy to find in this idyllic location and prices tend to be high. Catherine Jousselin, an estate agent for the area, has an apartment in the centre of the village, 130m2 on two levels, with original features including Cayrou walls (red bricks and river stones). Fully renovated and equipped it is on offer for 520,231 €, otherwise for 447,399€.

North of Collioure the rocky coastline turns to swathes of sand. The transition occurs at Racou, with its fishermen’s houses on the beach and sand ‘streets’ lined with cacti.

Just up from here is Argelès-Plage and Argelès village. In addition to the mobile home parks there is a large, chic and very clean promenade and the village is attractive and relatively unspoilt. A local estate agent, Christophe Bouvet, has a stylish property in the hills above Argelès, towards Collioure. There is about 250m2 living space and 16000m2 of land. In the main house, on the ground floor, there are 4 bedrooms with private bathroom facilities and a living room of 60m2. On the first floor there is another room and terrace of 150m2 offering panoramic views. There is another building with two bedrooms and a garage. The price is 870,000 euros.

He also has a neat, renovated, 3 bedroom house in Argelès village with a 60m2 garden-terrace for 215,000 €. According to Mr Bouvet there is a surplus of apartments for rental on the coast but houses are still being rented out successfully. A three bedroom house in Argelès village might be rented to French clients for 500-600 € a week during July and August.

The D2 leads off the coast into the hills of Albères. Olive groves, half-stripped cork trees and grand villas line the route. Laroque-des-Albères, enclosed by green slopes and only 9km from Argelès, is full of narrow, winding streets, character properties, and gardens on terraces. The Albères has several quiet, utterly charming villages which attract many international buyers who want to be near the coast but not the summer crowds. A sizeable property here, about 300m2, in good condition with original features and over 1000m2 of land might be 540,000 €.

Further into the mountains is Céret. This delightful, holiday-feel town has a laid-back boulevard lined with plane trees and cafés, where disciples of Picasso hang out. The great man himself lived here and there is an impressive modern art museum. Céret also produces the first cherries of the season and is thoroughly Catalan. You might hear the Catalan language and see a display of traditional dancing, the Sardane.

Mr Bouvet has a large village house with a small garden next to the elegant fourteenth century Pont du Diable, which crosses the river Tech. There is living space of about 170m2, comprising 2 bedrooms, a large attic which could be converted into another bedroom with bathroom, and other rooms. The house is in need of renovation but has great potential. Stone walls are waiting to be exposed. The house in its current condition is 135,000 €. Mr Bouvet estimates that it will take an additional 50,000 € to renovate entirely. For anyone interested Mr Bouvet has his own renovation company. He works with a British architect and the house could be designed according to personal taste. There is potential here for investors. Mr Bouvet estimates that once completed the house could be worth 250,000 – 260,000€. It might be rented on a weekly basis in season for 1200 – 1500 €.

The narrow, winding roads from Céret towards Thuir offer dramatic views of pleated slopes covered in trees. The cork oaks and pine trees ensure greenery all year. Near Llauro the Plaine du Roussillon stretches out below with the sea and the Corbières mountains in the distance. Vivès is a study in stone houses and narrow cobbled streets.

Another local agent, Laurence Moys, has a bed and breakfast property for sale in a quiet, select village just outside the town of Thuir. This beautiful stone house, about 500 years old, has 360m2 of living space, includes 5 ensuite bedrooms currently used by guests, a dining room and two lounges currently available to guests and a private part with a bedroom and lounge for the owners. The house is built on a 492m2 plot and another 400m2 plot is currently used for parking , but could be turned into a pool. The garden includes a summer kitchen, BBQ and fountain and there is a stone terrace. It is completely renovated and has been operating successfully as a guest house for the past 3 years. The price is 930,000 €.

With such an important tourist industry gîtes and bed and breakfast do well. However, Madame Moys warns that whilst the demand is there for more gîtes many of the properties which could be adapted are on agricultural land and it is often impossible to get planning permission. It might therefore be easier to set up a guest house. Catherine Jousselin adds that there is a particular need for quality accommodation throughout the department, especially with bi-lingual owners.

The drive north from Thuir to Estagel is a lonely one through vines and dry slopes. The area around the villages of Estgel, Maury and Baixas is known for its production of wine, especially sweet wine.

Property prices here can be very reasonable. Madame Jousselin has a sunny village house in the area with 110m2 living space, a fitted kitchen, a good sized living room, three bedrooms, a shower room and a big garage for 114,337 €. Decorating is required. This area is still within easy reach of the coast. Maury is about 45 minutes from Port Barcarès and Estagel and Baixas even less. It is just over an hour to the ski station at Les Angles.

The N116 west of Perpignan heads into the heart of the Pyrenees. Jonathan Pugh, working for an agency which specialises in exclusive properties, says that some very big, secluded estates can be found heading into the mountains. He has a nineteenth century stone house, entirely renovated, with 260m2 living space, 4 bedrooms, 4 shower rooms, a large living room, large kitchen, pool, pool house, and sizeable guest house on 150 hectares of woods and meadows with springs for 1,300,000 €.

Prades is popular with international buyers because of its location, half way between the coast and the ski resorts. It is a pleasant town associated with the composer Pablo Casals who lived in exile here after the Spanish Civil War. Near by is the once-important, beautiful, medieval abbey of Saint Michel-de-Cuxa. You are now near the Massif du Canigou and the celebrated mountain can be partly climbed by car on a road leading from Prades.

House prices round here are reasonable. Madame Jousselin has a large house with a living area of about 280m2 on three levels with 5 bedrooms, 2 big living rooms, an office, laundary, playroom, garage, 2 terraces and a garden of 450m2 for 274,700 €. Two independent entrances would allow the ground floor to be rented out.

By the next village, Villefranche-de-Conflent, the mountains have lost a lot of their emerald cover, are crowding the road and looking dangerous and dramatic. The road from now on upto Andorra and Font-Romeu becomes narrower, steep and winding. Font-Romeu at 1800m is the sunniest ski resort in France and, with its neighbour Pyrénées 2000 one of the biggest. There are 38 pistes, including 8 black runs, and 460 snow canons. Every other possible snow activity is also catered for including snow boarding, snow shoes, dog sledding and snow scooters.

Pyrénées-Orientales is an extraordinary department. In the past three years property prices have risen by 12-15%. However, the market is calming down and prices stabilising. Madame Moys notes that vendors are beginning to reduce their asking price to ensure the property sells. So if you are tempted to buy a property in this remarkable part of France it could be the time to do so.

Contact Couleurs de France. The company offers a range of services for house hunters including free property search in Pyrénées-Orientales through its network of local estate agents. Refer to website www.couleurs-de-france.com , or telephone English speaking staff on 0871 210 6550 or +33 561 095 439.

Linda Rano, Couleurs de France
Couleurs de France offers courses on how to purchase property in France, free property search and support for buyers.
Tel. 0871 210 6550 / +33 5 61 09 54 39
info@couleurs-de-france.com
www.couleurs-de-france.com