Published in French Property News in July 2004

The Good Life

The Tarn has been a favourite with British buyers in the South West for many years. North Europeans looking for a peaceful life in the sun have been attracted by the character properties, seductive countryside, vineyards, forests and historic villages. The department’s main town, Albi, has its own appeal, incorporating an ideal mix of shops, fascinating old quarters, and some architectural gems. However, despite a hike in prices in the more sought-after corners there are still areas of the Tarn where house prices remain very reasonable.

The Tarn, north and east of Toulouse, is characterised by the same hot summers, warm autumns, rainy springs and short winters. However, there are some local variations, for instance, it can be 3-5° cooler on the higher ground towards Aveyron and into the mountains of the Montagne Noire and Parc Régional du Haut-Languedoc. The variation in climate and landscape is part of the attraction of the department. Verdant mountains contrast with sweeping, undulating fields, covered in crops, vines or trees. Sinuous roads, bordered by abundant, green vegetation, wind down into narrow river valleys. The widest valley belongs to the river Tarn itself as it opens up near Albi and flows towards the Garonne.

The area bordered by Albi, Gaillac and the bastide of Cordes has earnt the title ‘golden triangle’ and is still considered by some as Tarn’s prized location. The area is irresistible. Medieval, hill-top villages, look down on stone houses among the Gaillac vineyards. Access to Toulouse’s international airport is also easy. However, there is a price to pay for living the dream. According to Romain Brasset at Albi’s Agence de la Cathédrale prices in the area have risen considerably in recent years. He estimates that properties costing 230,000€ - 300,000€ five years ago cost 300,000 – 460,000€ today. Demand continues to out-strip supply, so it is likely the trend will continue, though probably at a slower rate. The agency have just sold an attractive stone property in the area with 270m2 living space, 4 bedrooms, an outbuilding, 9000m2 of land and good views for 460,000€.

Just to the south of Albi a similar sized stone property, with a 2 bedroom apartment and a pool was sold for 290,000€. This rolling agricultural area is becoming increasingly popular with British buyers. Real bargains can be found in the more isolated villages. Agence de la Cathédrale recently sold a two bedroom house in perfect condition with a large living room, outbuilding, pool and 3300m2 of land, near Teillet (about 40km from Albi) for 160,000€. However, buyers are often drawn to the more attractive towns, such as Realmont and Lavaur, even if the prices around Lavaur reflect its proximity to Toulouse. The Lavaur area has some impressive brick, stone and half-timbered houses. During the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries the fields in this area produced pastel (woad) , the leaves of which give a blue dye, which was exported throughout Europe. Chateaux, once owned by the woad merchants, occasionally come onto the market.

North of Albi hasn’t traditionally been so popular with British buyers. The cooler climate, and old mines were unfavourably compared to the Gaillac vineyards. However, the Ségala Plateau has its own charm - the landscape for lovers of open, rural spaces is ideal, summer temperatures are more pleasant, and the mining areas around Carmaux have been converted into a large leisure and sporting complex, ‘Cap’ Decouverte. Also, property prices are very reasonable and houses often have fine, more unusual architectural features, incorporating inner courtyards and slate roofs. Sizeable farms can often be converted into gîtes or chambres d’hôte. According to Mr Brasset properties in villages near the N88 offer good investment potential. The current A68 motorway between Albi and Toulouse is being extended to Rodez, along the N88. Plans have been approved and some parts have been started (though the finish date is as yet uncertain). Agence de la Cathédrale has a house for 150,000€ in a village 4/5 km from the route of the new road. There is 200m2 living space, 4 bedrooms (and a possible fifth), a cellar/laundry, and several outbuildings including a pigsty, barn and workshop, on 1140m2 of land. The property has a new roof and can be lived in but needs work. Once the motorway is operational the house will 40 minutes from Toulouse and 30 minutes from Rodez. People in the area often use Rodez airport for direct flights into Stanstead with Ryan Air.

Similar bargains and properties can be found east of Albi. Undulating fields and woods are sliced by the winding, picturesque Tarn valley. According to Martine Meignan at agency Campagne & Soleil in Alban, British and other foreign buyers are attracted to the area by ‘la douceur de vivre’ (quality of life) and property prices. Sometimes people with family in different parts of the world buy a property here as somewhere they can get together. It is also a good area to buy for renting out, since there is a lack of available properties. Seasonal letting would be limited to the summer but long-term lets or letting to people visiting the area are also possible. Madame Meignan helps clients organise their letting. There are sizeable farms in the area that can be bought very reasonably and can be converted into gites or chambres d’hôte. However, Martine only advices such a project to those able to fund the renovation. Those on a limited budget are better off buying a smaller property which does not require much work. Village houses in good condition, with no land, can be bought for a song. The agency has one beside the river Tarn, near the tourist village of Ambialet, with 80m2 living space, two bedrooms (and a possible third), wooden beams, and electric heating for 65,500€. Again, some parts of the area are closer to Rodez than Toulouse.

Albi itself, with a population of about 50,000, is commercial and a successful tourist centre. The old quarters and enormous, Southern Gothic, red-brick, cathedral of Saint Cécile, are captivating. One of the biggest attractions is the Toulouse-Lautrec museum with over 1000 of the artist’s paintings, drawings and lithographs. He was born in Albi. British people occasionally buy in the town, especially in the older parts. Mr Brasset has sold a two bedroom apartment in excellent condition with original features for 125,000€, used as a holiday home. Those looking to invest might also consider buying in Albi. Mr Brasset has sold a two bedroom house in old Albi in decent condition, with a garage but no garden, for 87,500€ and the owner rents it out. The most reliable and profitable letting is long-term. The rent usually covers most of the mortgage.

The second biggest town in the department is Castres, further south of Albi along the N112. It is a lively place with some great things going for it such as the excellent Goya museum, but the town is more work-a-day than Albi and hasn’t attracted British house buyers in the same way.

Just to the east of Castres is the Sidobre, an immense block of granite ten kilometres long, ten kilometres wide and ten kilometres deep. Geology, the elements and time have forged some extraordinary rock features such as l’Oie, which looks exactly like a goose. Granite boulders are strewn among the woods and hills. Prices in the area are reasonable. Agence de la Cathédrale has a collection of buildings near Vabre for 200,000€ comprising a house of 240m2 living space, with 4 bedrooms (3 with chimneys), a living room, cellar and three other rooms to renovate, a 270m2 stone barn and an open stone outbuilding. Privilege Immobilier, based in the Ariège, has an eighteenth century maison de maitre, currently operating as a chambres d’hôte, with a living area of 450m2, 10 bedrooms, 8 bathrooms, land of 12000m2, two barns, and a pool, for 554,600€.

Further east again, deeper into the Parc Régional du Haut-Languedoc, are the Monts de Lacaune. This mountainous area has forests and lakes and is ideal for sporting activities. However the climate can be harsh and access is often difficult.

South of Castres is another paradise for the sporty, the tree-covered slopes of the Montagne Noire. These mountains stretch into the department of Aude. The main town on the Tarn side is pleasant Mazamet. Like many villages in the area it is situated on the N112, which heads east into Herault and west towards Toulouse. The D118 from Mazamet goes south to Carcassonne, putting it less than an hour from Carcassonne airport, with direct flights into Stanstead with Ryan Air. British buyers who want to live in the south of France, but like a quick escape from the summer heat, are attracted to this area. The striking mountain scenery and the proximity of old villages such as medieval Sorèze are other reasons for living here. House prices are also very reasonable. Sizeable village houses near to Mazamet, 3-4 bedrooms with some land and in good condition can be picked up for just over 100,000€. Smaller village houses or those requiring work can be found for much less.

The Tarn is a relaxed rural department that offers some of the best things in life – a time to think, taste the wine, and forget about the rest of the world The good news is houses are still available for most budgets. Many of us can still buy into that ‘douceur de vivre’.