Published in French Property News in January 2005

Away From It All

The Couserans is a secluded, visually stunning corner of France, in the south west of Ariège. It is a land of Pyrenean foothills, mountain valleys and high peaks. The town of St Girons is the commercial ‘capital’ of this beautiful area and St Lizier the historical one. The other few towns live a quiet life to a slow beat in the shadow of the mountains. Elsewhere, except for the cows and sheep, you could be the only soul for miles around.

People buying in the Couserans usually like the outdoors. There is down hill skiing at Guzet (40 minutes from St Girons) and many breathtaking walks throughout the area. Some come here looking for a return to the earth and you can see them selling their home-grown produce at St Girons’ colourful market on a Saturday.

Foreign buyers settling here (mostly British, Belgians and Dutch) usually want to integrate with the locals and sometimes convert old run-down properties into buildings that do their communities proud. This has helped foster a tolerant attitude towards outsiders. Others buy holiday homes and might come in winter to ski and in summer to relax in the warm sun and appreciate the spectacular scenery. Many people from Toulouse have second homes in the area. It all helps make for a mixed community. The streets of St Girons are surprisingly cosmopolitan.

One of the estate agents working with Couleurs de France says that British people with young families are now being attracted to the area, and have helped the local schools fill their classrooms. Some people set up in the building trade or other professions, some buy properties to renovate and /or let out, others might set up a guest house or gîte. If guest house or gîte owners publicise through the local tourist office, through agencies such as Gîtes de France, and put the word out to people they know, they should be very busy throughout the summer months at least. In fact, the area is short of accommodation.

Although prices have risen in recent years they remain in general reasonable. The least expensive properties can usually be found in the valleys, out towards Massat and around Castillon.

The D618 from St Girons to Massat is a narrow, winding road, encased between damp, tree-covered rock faces, beside the river Arac. By mid November the forests of beech, chestnut and other varieties turn picturesque shades of faded green, orange, brown, yellow and red, and already look partially skeletal. By early winter the peaks rising above the trees can be covered in snow. If there are traces of snow just beyond St Girons, by Biert and Massat there are Christmas-card scenes.

Massat is a laid-back place of tall buildings with sharply sloping roofs, surrounded by wooded mountains. Houses dot the surrounding hillsides. It is ideal for those wanting a quiet, but not isolated, life. There are the usual shops and facilities but you would need to make trips to St Girons to stock up. There aren’t many other places, even in France, where middle-aged women feel safe hitch-hiking.

One of Couleurs de France’s estate agent partners has a chalet near Massat of 140m2 on two levels with a kitchen, bathroom and toilet on each, which also has a house and barn needing renovation, all on 4000m2 of land, for 261 722€ (refer to Couleurs de France’s website for more details). Massat is popular in the summer for ‘tourisme vert’, there are riding stables and opportunities for other sporting activities. In the winter there is ski de fond and snowshoes at the Etang de Lers (1300m altitude).

Barns for sale are becoming rarer but can still be found. Back along the Arac valley, above the mountain village of Aleu, one of Couleurs de France’s partners has a pretty renovated barn of 60m2 including a living room with chimney, 2 bedrooms, bathroom with toilet, and heating, on 1.3 hectares of land for 70 127€ (see Couleurs de France’s website). This is a visually stunning area surrounded by imposing peaks, especially beautiful when sunny and carpeted in snow. To live up here you need a 4 wheel drive.

Castillon, south west of St Girons, is a peaceful town of narrow alleys and lanes surrounded by tree covered slopes. It is at the head of the valleys of Biros and Bethmale. Some of the houses have ornate wooden balconies with over-hanging flowers. It is also a centre of cheese production, particularly Bamalou and Bethmale. Couleurs de France have on their website a partly renovated village house of 160m2 with 4 / 5 bedrooms, a bathroom, toilet and new roof for 54, 500€

The Bethmale valley is more open than the Arac, offering complete views of the mountains beside the road. Apart from its cheese, the valley is also known for its bright traditional dress and legends. At Aret there is a clog maker who carves long, pointed, curly toed, wooden shoes. There is a story attached to them. Once upon a time a young man of the valley killed his fiancée and her lover. He then walked around with their hearts spiked on the ends of his pointed clogs crying “take note unfaithful girls, this serves you a lesson”. Today less unfortunate fiancées are given a pair of the clogs with a heart engraved on the point.

Stroll into one of the villages around here and you might think that you have walked into a fairy tale. The hamlet of Samortein has a cluster of small stone houses with steeply sloping roofs, smoking chimneys and wooden shutters that wouldn’t look out of place in Hansel and Gretel. You might see a shepherd sitting beside the road.

St Girons, with a population under 7000, seems large in comparison. This open-minded, lively town, surrounded by green slopes and mountain peaks, has all the shops and facilities needed. The attractive, fast-flowing, river Salat runs through it and meets the river Lez. A house beside the river is for sale. It has 200m2 living space, with 4 bedrooms, 3 toilets, 2 shower rooms and a covered terrace. It is entirely renovated, has original features and of course a great view. The price is 149,800€.

There are some interesting, narrow streets back from the river and around the church. Maison Savignac in rue Pierre Mazaud specialises in authentic knives from the region, with their different lengths, blades and shapes including the Ariegeois and Couserannais. The town also has a number of tempting cake and chocolate shops. Try Gilles Simonet (9 place Jean Jaurès), it has a fountain of warm chocolate. You are given a tea-spoon to catch the chocolate as it flows. This popular chocolatier is also a salon de thé with a wonderful array of teas served in a teapot, even with milk if you want.

Another of Couleurs de France’s estate agent partners has a nice villa near St Girons of 170m2 with 5 bedrooms and 2971m2 of land with a view of the mountains for 277 300€. And a character property of 300m2, full of beams, with 4 bedrooms and 2067m2 of land for 385 200€.

St Girons at the moment is about an hour and a quarter from the international airport at Toulouse. It is likely to become closer with the development of a duel carriageway which, for part of the way at least, should provide a quicker link with the A64. Work is underway.

St Girons runs into St Lizier. This ancient town, built on a steep hill, contains a rich collection of historic buildings. St Lizier was an important bishopric from the sixth century until the start of the nineteenth and the Palais des Eveques, built in 1660, looks down on the town. From up there on a winter’s day your only company is swirling pools of leaves and the sound of cow bells, bleating sheep and dogs. Just down the hill is the cathedral Saint Lizier, with its beautiful twelfth century cloister and Toulousain-style bell tower. Narrow streets lead down the hill, lined with neat houses and tubs of flowers. There are also some palm trees – to remind us that we are in the south of France. Occasionally houses come up for sale both in the old sector and in the lower town, at the bottom of the hill.

British buyers can be found all over the Couserans. They buy here because they fall in love with the area. If you are looking for somewhere offering magnificent scenery, an outdoor life and sporting activities, and it is off the beaten track without being isolated, think about buying in the Couserans.

Linda Rano, Couleurs de France
Property agents Couleurs de France offer property search in the SW, support for buyers and courses on how to buy property in France.
Tel. 0871 210 6550 / +33 5 61 09 54 39
info@couleurs-de-france.com
www.couleurs-de-france.com